After taking a few days off due to an RSI flare-up in my wrists, today I managed to make some serious headway on the Viking ship. It is such fiddly work. Everything is small, thin and fragile. In many circumstances, I cannot use my Dremel because the sheer tork will destroy those tiny little bits and pieces (not to mention, rip off my fingertips.) I have to resort to small needle files and carving tools. It also makes cutting these small items on the band-saw quite dodgy and dangerous, as they are so small and I end up getting uncomfortably close to the spinning blade. There is a system, an order in how to proceed with this project; I must firstly complete all the internal work before gluing the dragon head and tail, as well as fit the mast and t-bars... Otherwise, these would get in the way. I have never built a small wooden ship before, so this is all new to me. It is definitely tedious and fiddly work, but it's also an excellent test of my patience, resolve and problem-solving ability. I feel like I am a Viking... Venturing out into uncharted seas! | The oak veneers have been glued to the tail piece of the boat and are currently drying in the alligator clamps. On the right hand-side, just above the boat, you can see the small gouge I use for carving many of the finer details. |
I have been working steadily on the Viking longship and am making good progress. I had a sneaking suspicion that the timber I used for the hull was in fact Australian red cedar and not jarrah. Jarrah is hard and tends to scorch if I use the Dremel at high speed. It is also quite dense, heavy, and has a coarse grain that splinters easily. Aussie red cedar is lighter and softer, and the grain is tight and doesn't splinter as readily as jarrah. It is quite a lovely wood to work with and the resonance made it a favourite with luthiers for many years until it became protected due to over-logging. The only downside to red cedar is that it is prone to borers and sap veins which can ruin a good piece of wood. Today, I got a clear confirmation that it is in fact red cedar and not jarrah. While sanding away at the hull, I came across a few borer holes and a sap vein. These can easily be patched without too much fuss, and as a free-standing sculpture, they add to the charm of the subject. In the case of musical instruments though, holes are a big no-no! This sculpture project is bringing back memories of my childhood and Meccano. My creativity and love of building three dimensional things goes back a long way. Initially, I wasn't sure how I was going to tackle this small boat and be able to carve out all those tiny details from one solid chunk of wood... It just didn't make sense and was totally unfeasible. I figured the best approach is to built it piece by piece, like a small Meccano project, and then assemble it as I go along. I couldn't help but laugh at the irony when I realised I was making an IKEA Viking ship... Isn't IKEA Swedish!? Lately, I have been quite concerned over a loved one's health issue. As always, I find solace through art and creativity. I have started working on a new woodworking/sculpture commission; a viking longship. This request couldn't have come at a better time... It will help me keep my mind and spirit on an "even keel" (bad pun) during this stressful period. For those interested in the old Norsemen's naval construction history, check out this Wikipedia link. My ship will mostly be inspired by the Gokstad vessel found in Norway, but it will also amalgamate many of the different boat-building style and techniques of the ancient Scandinavians.
The main part of the hull has been carved out from a solid piece of jarrah; a type of Australian wood known for it's sturdiness and beautiful rich red tone. So far, I have shaped and hollowed out the hull of the vessel, as well as create a veneer for the decking. The decking consists of alternating strips of jarrah and white oak (the typical wood that was used for naval construction back then). The thin strips of jarrah represent the ribs of the lower deck that peek out through the oak floorboards. It may not make much visual sense right now, but it will as I progress along with the creative process. As I find the oak a bit too bright and flashy, I may dull it down by ebonizing it with one coat of iron acetate and then scuffing it back lightly. This will give it the weathered look of an old vessel. |
About the AuthorI am a student of life, a nature nut, a passionate artist, a staunch individualist, a quiet introvert, and childlike at heart. Categories
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